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  1. #1

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    I’m not building, per se, because I’m not starting from scratch. But I am taking my acoustic Godin 5th Avenue and adding a floating pickup. I’m perfectly comfortable doing all the electronics work EXCEPT installing the endpin jack, because of the limited access through the F-holes. I’m worried about tightening the nut to hold it in place from inside the guitar. So I’m leaning towards using this jack:

    WD Music Products® Screw Mount Stereo Endpin Jack

    My question is: is there a better product or a better way to do this that I’m missing?

    secondary question: how would you recommend grounding the trapeze tailpiece on an existing instrument to minimize hum?

    Figured I’d ask the experts.

    Zac
    Last edited by zcostilla; 02-15-2019 at 04:15 AM.

  2.  

    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #2

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    This the one I use self taps in but I aready have a reamer. I would use this and you can simply run ground to the tailpiece hinge when you put it back on. Just strip ground so wire is exposed enough attach.

    Fishman Switchjack Endpin Jack | stewmac.com

  4. #3

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    Here is another option I use and actually like this better.
    WDENDPIN Chrome Endpin Stereo/Mono Jack Active Preamp | Reverb

  5. #4

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    My $.02:

    Meh:
    WD Music Products® Screw Mount Stereo Endpin Jack
    WDENDPIN Chrome Endpin Stereo/Mono Jack Active Preamp | Reverb

    Love it:
    Fishman Switchjack Endpin Jack | stewmac.com

    Why?
    -It works with a lot of tailpieces so that one does not need to modify the strap pin hole in the tailpiece.
    -It can lock onto the endblock of the guitar.
    -It is remarkably secure once installed.
    -Really easy to install, with no extra holes required, no tapping of threads required.
    -Excellent build quality.
    -Looks way nicer than the others, IMO.

    Just did this one:
    Attached Images Attached Images Any tips for installing endpin jack?-hoyer_4824-jpg Any tips for installing endpin jack?-hoyer_4826-jpg 
    Last edited by Hammertone; 02-22-2019 at 06:07 AM.

  6. #5

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    My only advice is to get a reamer. Don't even think about doing it with a drill bit. You don't need StewMac's, they're very proud of theirs, way too expensive. But you can buy one at most tool stores, probably even Harbor Freight, and it should work fine. I've forgotten where I got mine, it's >25 years old. I've only used it a few times, but it was worth the price. It's also handy for enlarging holes for pots, and anywhere else you need to enlarge a hole in wood.

    For grounding, the jack provides adequate grounding for the strings with a metal tailpiece. The ground wire to the jack should be connected to common ground in the guitar. But check that to make sure.

  7. #6

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    My reamer from Menards was about $9.00 same tool.

  8. #7

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    So I had a regular jack (not an endpin) and decided to go this route because I didn’t want to drill through the end block. But I didn’t do a dry run before drilling and my jack is too big to squeeze through the f-hole. Any suggestions?

  9. #8

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    Go big or go home:
    Attached Images Attached Images Any tips for installing endpin jack?-godin-fix-jpg 

  10. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammertone
    Go big or go home:
    Lol! Woke up thinking about a different jack and Les Paul style plate.

    AP-0633 Metal Jackplate for Les Paul(R)

    EP-0151 Switchcraft(R) 151 Mono Long Threaded Jack

  11. #10

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    You must have some very small f holes. I've never had a problem getting a jack through one, although it can require trying different orientations to wiggle it through. Jacks do come in different sizes, though. I've never used that type of jack other than in an endblock, but it should work. And a number of manufacturers use that sort of plate in the rim, including Benedetto.

  12. #11

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    Since you are going electric, why not just go all JJ Cale on it?
    Attached Images Attached Images Any tips for installing endpin jack?-harmony_cale-jpg 

  13. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammertone
    Since you are going electric, why not just go all JJ Cale on it?
    Holy Balls! Wow! I’m not against my instrument being well played and sporting a few battle scars, it I would NEVER do that to one.

    I actually went with a floating pickup and pickguard mounted controls to avoid cutting into the soundboard. I bought the Gibson jack plate at the local Guitar Center (at twice the price of Amazon, but I wanted it today). 8 had a similar jack to what I posted in my spare parts bin, but it isn’t threaded all the way, so I went to Lowe’s and got a nylon bushing to take up the gap and make it tight. Now I just have to drill the hole into the jack plate a little bigger and hope the chrome doesn’t flake. Going to cover it with Frog tape first to protect it.

    [EDITED TO ADD] found this when looking up what in the world he had going on. J.J. Cale’s Fifty Dollar Guitar | American Standard Time

  14. #13

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    Hey, it's a big tent. and, what with the universe expanding 'n'all, it keeps getting bigger.
    The Harmony brand has been reintroduced.
    Maybe they'll offer a JJ Cale model.
    Followed by Chinese knockoffs.

  15. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammertone
    Go big or go home:
    Now, those are just so your giant Texas shaped belt buckle doesn't scratch up the back.

  16. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by sgosnell
    You must have some very small f holes. I've never had a problem getting a jack through one, although it can require trying different orientations to wiggle it through. Jacks do come in different sizes, though. I've never used that type of jack other than in an endblock, but it should work. And a number of manufacturers use that sort of plate in the rim, including Benedetto.
    So I was really tired last night and after sleeping and spending the morning not thinking about it, I reapproached the regular jack I already had soldered in and having loose, and found by inserting it BACKSIDE FIRST through the hole, I could work it in. It left a small scratch on the f-hole side, but it isn’t bound and it’s not a big deal. The pickup is installed and sounds sweet!

    My Varsity amp breaks up too soon and doesn’t have the headroom I’d like but the Carvin MB-12 bass amp sounds great. I just wish it had some reverb.

  17. #16

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  18. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by zcostilla
    and found by inserting it BACKSIDE FIRST through the hole, I could work it in. It left a small scratch on the f-hole side, but it isn’t bound and it’s not a big deal. The pickup is installed and sounds sweet! .
    yay result !

    whats the pickup and guitar ?

  19. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by pingu
    yay result !

    whats the pickup and guitar ?
    Godin 5th Avenue (acoustic) with custom Charlie Christian floating pickup by Vintage Vibe (Pete Biltoft)

  20. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by sgosnell
    That “Jazzy Room” tone print sounds SWEET!

  21. #20

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    I like the GC default, something like "chasing the tone", but there are many hundreds of them available.

  22. #21

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    I'm in the process of adding a floater to my acoustic Kingpin myself. I will purchase a reamer for the end-pin, but how do I hold onto the inside nut to tighten the outside? Do I just set the nut distance, pull the jack through and rely on friction to keep the inside nut (or cover, depending on which jack I go with) in place?

    Thanks for any advice.

  23. #22

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    Use a star washer inside the inside nut, that will provide enough bite to keep everything in place.

  24. #23

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    I didn’t want to pay for a special tool that I’d only use once or twice in my life. I cut a wire hanger, and bent the end into a small “T”. Then I feed the long end through and pulled it through the hole. Keeping tension on the wire hanger will hold the jack in place while you tighten the nut at the end of the jack.

    (edited because autocorrect worked on autoconfuse mode and gave me typos)
    Last edited by zcostilla; 08-15-2020 at 05:12 AM.

  25. #24

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    2 great suggestions, thanks. I like the star washer idea as it will also do some compression to keep things locked up, but I was also planning on using a coat hanger to pull the assembly through, so I can go either way. Thanks, folks!

  26. #25

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    Perhaps I'm not comprehending everything being discussed. There is no hole through an endpin jack, and no room through a proper hole through the endblock to have anything except the jack go through it. You can only apply pressure from the inside, which is problematic because you will probably bend and perhaps break the clips where the cable is soldered. You can use a plug without the sleeve to pull the jack through, but it won't stand much pressure without pulling out. I am happy to be enlightened.

  27. #26

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    Well, I was basing the wire suggestion on having used it on a guitar that I had to repair after someone using one of my instruments managed to pull the plug out (he leaned it against an amp then tripped on the wire. The outside nut was close to the end and it stripped out). I just took a coat hanger, cut about an 8" section and put a 90° bend in the end, fished the end of the jack through the hole in the body, pulled it through and tightened a new nut on, over the coat hanger. I didn't try to hold the jack from the inside as it was possible to tighten it up without the barrel moving.

    A long end-pin Jack looks somewhat more complicated than a regular Switchcraft as far as doing a new install (seeing as how I have limited skills other than being able to do my own setups, simple soldering and using a Dremel) so I wanted to make sure I was doing it correctly.

    As far as trying both goes, yes, I found an end-pin jack that has a star compression ring that should hold it in place. I'll use the same piece of coat hanger I used to renew the nut on the Switchcraft.

    That was just my experience, but I didn't mess up any wiring, so I'm confident this will work. Worst case, I take it to a luthier friend of mine, but I really would like to say I did this whole job myself, rather than hiring it out.

  28. #27

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    A standard jack won't work as an endpin, because the endblock is so thick. You have to use a specific endpin jack there. But I guess you could use a wire bent only a fraction of an inch instead of a 1/4" plug. Maybe a little tricky, but possible. I've always used hemostats to hold the jack, but it's always good to learn new ways of doing things.

  29. #28

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    Yeah, what I figured I'd do is measure how deep into the block the jack receiver goes, set the inside nut at a depth that lets me get the outside nut on, put the 90° bent hanger into the inside of the receiver, pull everything through the block, slide the nut over the wire and into the jack and keep tension on the wire until I get a snug fit in the outside nut. Then I hope that the spring washer inside does its job over time.

    Thanks for your advice, I'll let you know how it all comes out!

  30. #29

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    Actually, I had forgotten exactly how an endpin is mounted. If you remove the end cap and expose the threads underneath, there is a hole in the side, through the threads, which is used for attaching a wire, string, or whatever, to get the jack through the endblock and hold it in place. There is nothing inside that I can find to hook a coat hanger onto. But the holes under the cap are there.

  31. #30

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    Ok, that sounds great. The pin I'm thinking about ordering doesn't have an end cap, just a nut with a lock washer on the inside part, but I'll let you know how it all comes out. Again, thanks for thinking about this and advising me.

  32. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by sgosnell
    Perhaps I'm not comprehending everything being discussed. There is no hole through an endpin jack, and no room through a proper hole through the endblock to have anything except the jack go through it. You can only apply pressure from the inside, which is problematic because you will probably bend and perhaps break the clips where the cable is soldered. You can use a plug without the sleeve to pull the jack through, but it won't stand much pressure without pulling out. I am happy to be enlightened.
    Great point. In the spirit of trying to be helpful I wasn’t thinking clearly. I did indeed use a wire hanger bent to a “T”, but I did not use an end pin jack. I used a standard Switchcraft jack about 3 or 4 inches to the treble side of the lower bout. This was the best location for me when sitting, because it gave me flexibility to hold the neck high like a classical, so the jack would be pointing straight down, or pointing about 45° down and away if holding the guitar on my right leg.
    Last edited by zcostilla; 08-17-2020 at 01:19 PM.