The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
Reply to Thread Bookmark Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Posts 26 to 29 of 29
  1. #26
    What I ended up doing is, I carved the vertical part of this contraption instead of the the part lying flat on the surface. When opened the back of the guitar to measure what size piece I need, I realized that a flat piece attached to the spring/claw part of the cavity parallel to strings (my original plan) wouldn't align with the strings as the cavity gets wider around where the bridge is (blush). Ie. the two E strings at the opposite extremes would actually fall on the edge of such piece.
    So carved a piece that basically fills the hollow part under the bridge (just like the vertical part of the Hipshot Trilogy adapter). I put holes for the strings that aligned perfectly with the saddles and screwed it to the head side of the body. Works perfectly!

  2.  

    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #27
    I guess a picture is worth a thousand words. Carved piece is (two piece) poplar.
    This is actually a partcaster project. I ordered the unfinished body (3 pounds) from Warmoth. Been painting it olympic white in the past 10 days or so. Even put some relic job on it. I had some extra American strat parts accumulated over the years, but borrowed the neck from my other strat for the time being. It all came to 6.4 pounds. My other Strat was 8.4 pounds. Not bad.
    Still sounds as Strat like anything I've heard. This proves (to me) that Strat sound is really the pickups and the scale length. Tremolo may have an affect on the sound but it isn't what gives Strat it's characteristic sound based how this guitar sounds to me.
    For grounding in the back, I shaped the end of the grounding wire with solder so that it just fits snug through the ring end of the strings (pictured).
    Also note that the relationship between the strings and the bridge is exactly the same as in cosmic gumbo's hardtail picture (post #6), so the standard tremolo bridge works perfectly.
    Attached Images Attached Images Hardtailing a Stratocaster-cam00732-jpg Hardtailing a Stratocaster-img_0166-jpg Hardtailing a Stratocaster-cam00731-jpg Hardtailing a Stratocaster-img_0169-jpg 
    Last edited by Tal_175; 05-28-2018 at 06:58 AM.

  4. #28

    User Info Menu

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammertone
    - swapping ferrules always leads to pain, suffering and chipped finishes (ask me how I know!)
    While I'm sure you know how to deal with ferrules, I'll through in my two cents while the subject is raised.

    I think some of the removal issues arise from how they get installed -- there's a need to ensure they get pressed evenly, into clean round holes. What works against that is the condition where the guitar finish (sprayed after the ferrule holes are created) gets into the hole, and the builder uses brute force to hammer the ferrules in. They can end up looking OK and fit square, but due to the uneven interference fit some will be found problematic to remove.

    Use a reamer to clean new finish out of the holes before installation (do this for tuner holes as well) and you'll find the installation is much more controlled and even. I use a drill press to ensure the ferrule goes in squarely.
    If you do have to press them out later, touch a solder iron briefly on the ferrule and the heat will soften finish enough to prevent chipping out.

    Hardtailing a Stratocaster-reamed_ferrule_hole-jpgHardtailing a Stratocaster-ferrules_press-jpgHardtailing a Stratocaster-ferrules_final-jpg

  5. #29

    User Info Menu

    Quote Originally Posted by john_a
    While I'm sure you know how to deal with ferrules, I'll through in my two cents while the subject is raised. I think some of the removal issues arise from how they get installed -- there's a need to ensure they get pressed evenly, into clean round holes. What works against that is the condition where the guitar finish (sprayed after the ferrule holes are created) gets into the hole, and the builder uses brute force to hammer the ferrules in. They can end up looking OK and fit square, but due to the uneven interference fit some will be found problematic to remove. Use a reamer to clean new finish out of the holes before installation (do this for tuner holes as well) and you'll find the installation is much more controlled and even. I use a drill press to ensure the ferrule goes in squarely. If you do have to press them out later, touch a solder iron briefly on the ferrule and the heat will soften finish enough to prevent chipping out.
    Excellent description and pix for installing them. As you have pointed out, the problem arises when one removes ferrules installed by someone else - it's a crapshoot, especially with poly finishes.