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02-03-2017 06:18 PM
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The most commonly used glue types include PVA ( white glue) , super glue, epoxy and hide glue. For epoxy or PVA heat will release the bond. For hide glue a little water and some heat is needed. If it is super glue then acetone should dissolve it. You could try warming it up slowly and see if it comes apart with a pallet knife. If heat isn't working you could try some acetone . If you cant remove it a new piece looks fairly easy to make. Any of the glues mentioned could be used to reattach it.
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Originally Posted by Matt Cushman
I wanted to reuse this piece of Ebony because A the countersunk holes are already drilled, and B getting another piece of Ebony from a luthier in these parts means an 80 mile drive round trip.
edit - Which glue would create the strongest bond to reattach the block?Last edited by 2bornot2bop; 02-03-2017 at 07:36 PM.
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Depending on the epoxy, heat might not affect it. I once used some JB-Weld, and epoxy with metal mixed in, to reattach part of the exhaust manifold on a POS Chevy I once owned. When I sold that thing, the bond was as strong as it was when I glued it up, years and thousands of miles earlier. Epoxy is probably the strongest glue you can use there, but it may not be the ideal adhesive for the job. Something that can be unbonded if you need, as in this case, might be preferable. Hide glue is iffy for anyone who isn't proficient with it, and with joints that don't fit perfectly. Cyanoacrylate works ok, but also needs a well-fitting joint. I think I would use either CA or Titebond, so that I could disassemble the joint without damaging the wood, but epoxy would be stronger, IMO. It really depends on what is most important to you.
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Heat and Acetone did the job. Now I need to know which glue is best to attach the ebony block to an ebony pickguard?
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Originally Posted by 2bornot2bop
Titebond
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It's wood. Use wood glue that is not waterproof, so it can easily be serviced if necessary - Yellow glue, Carpenter's glue - Titebond and a few other brands out there.
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As I said before, Titebond works. But it seems that cyanoacrylate was used on the original, and if you like the results it will also do the job. It's really a matter of choice and convenience.
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Got it! Thanks to all!
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Originally Posted by Hammertone
that said, an even better titebond formula if future disassembly is desired would be their liquid hide .. i believe they may even market this stuff to makers of musical instruments.
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Originally Posted by sgosnell
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Originally Posted by jef
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Thanks to you all, I was able to restore the original pickguard that arrived with a cracked mounting block attached, with another ebony block I had on hand. Now my mind can rest easier without every time looking at the guitar thinking of the Oval being partially covered by the temporary guard. I could have easily gone with no guard but I prefer the guard, to no guard.
Last edited by 2bornot2bop; 02-04-2017 at 08:51 PM.
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The cracked block is easily repairable. Put some glue in the crack, clamp it to close the crack, and it should be as strong as it was before the crack, if not stronger. But I understand your concern, it's hard to trust things you have little experience with. In any case, I would suggest repairing and keeping the cracked block, just in case.
And the guard with the cutout for the soundhole looks much, much better than the straight one.
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Originally Posted by sgosnell
Heck if I can do this maybe I can learn to build a guitar?
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Originally Posted by sgosnell
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That's the general method for fixing any wooden object. Glue and clamp, unless it's big and has to resist a lot of torque or weight, in which case screws, nails, or even just brads might be used. For almost anything on a guitar, it's just glue and pressure. Ebony is just wood, although it's harder than many other species. The hardness is why it's used for fretboards and bridges. It's used for pickguards just because it matches the fretboard and bridge. I've made them from maple. Mostly because the maple was already on hand the getting ebony was expensive and time-consuming. I've made a couple from maple that I stained black to look like ebony, then finished, and that works. From a distance it looks like ebony. The audience can't tell. I wouldn't try to pass on off as ebony in a sale, but I'm not planning on selling anything I've built myself.
Last edited by sgosnell; 02-04-2017 at 10:15 PM.
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Originally Posted by 2bornot2bop
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