Guitar Nut Files

[docdosco]

I've come to pick your brains, not a guitar. (har har)

Ok.... what files do you use for cutting/evening the string grooves on the end nut? There is a cheap set of files on Ebay meant for welding torches. Anyone used them?

Cigar Box Guitar Tools: Long-shaft Nut/Bridge File Set 608866409359 | eBay

Otherwise any suggestions?

I should do this myself, but I have avoided this bit of set-up so far.

Thanks in advance.

Doc Dosco

[Slide]

Do you mean nut slotting files? This is what I use.

Gauged Nut Slotting Files | stewmac.com

[docdosco]

That's it. Thanks.

Damn, it's expensive to get all the different sizes. I can see why those welding files are popular on Ebay. However, who knows how well they work.....

These ones are pretty cheap too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GeetarGizmos...item1e851b5610

Doc

[StanG]

FWIW, I bought the cheap welding files, but ending up getting some of the real nut files. I didnt get the whole set and will use a smaller one to widen the slot when necessary.

Sometimes the best thing you can do for a guitar, as regards action and intonation, is to lower the nut slots.

[Jabberwocky]

Luthier Tools - Files and Rasps - Philadelphia Luthier Tools & Supplies, LLC

[fws6]

Sometimes the best thing you can do for a guitar, as regards action and intonation, is to lower the nut slots.

yup. The Major reason that so many old guitars have their TUNERS changed, is that there was a problem with the nut !

The correct angle / width / depth of the slots is important

dont make the mistake of filing too deep though, you'll end up with rattling open strings. When you press the string at the third fret, there should be a slight space between the top of the 1st fret and the underside of the string

[rpguitar]

I do this on the cheap. I use a small square of 220 grit sandpaper along with a bunch of guitar picks of different gauge. I crease the sandpaper into a 'V', then place a pick of the right approximate thickness - sideways, edge down - into the crease. I then use that as a "file."

It may not produce the exact shape of a string, but it works very well and I can't tell the difference. Note that I would not necessarily slot an entire nut from scratch this way. But it is fine for lowering the slots., which is usually what needs to happen.

[floatingpickup]

I bought the ones from Stewmac and they are excellent.
Keith

[bigdaddyguitar]

Stew-Mac.

[spiral]

I like the Uo-Chikyu files. Japanese made, double sided, correctly shapes the bottom of the slot ... Worth the price paid. Fret and nut tools is not a place to cut corners—no pun intended.
New 8 Piece Nut Slotting File Set Made in Japan Lt 1020 000 | eBay

[John A.]

I've come to pick your brains, not a guitar. (har har)

Ok.... what files do you use for cutting/evening the string grooves on the end nut? There is a cheap set of files on Ebay meant for welding torches. Anyone used them?

Cigar Box Guitar Tools Long Shaft Nut Bridge File Set 40 01 01 | eBay

Otherwise any suggestions?

I should do this myself, but I have avoided this bit of set-up so far.

Thanks in advance.

Doc Dosco

I actually bought a cheap set of needle files in a regular hardware store, and they worked fine. By chance, it has sizes that matched the slots, and a mix of flat and v-shaped cutting edges.

[jazzbow]

I've come to pick your brains, not a guitar. (har har)

Ok.... what files do you use for cutting/evening the string grooves on the end nut? There is a cheap set of files on Ebay meant for welding torches. Anyone used them?

Cigar Box Guitar Tools Long Shaft Nut Bridge File Set 40 01 01 | eBay

Hi Doc.

An old contributor to these pages called PT Christopher preferred welding files for nuts (guitar).
All fine with these except they leave a 'V' groove and not a 'U' groove.
A 'U' groove is preferable as half the string is seated snugly where as the 'V' groove would have less than 40% seated.
But a 'V' groove would theoretically be less susceptible to sticking when tuning as there is less string touching the groove.

Otherwise any suggestions?

I should do this myself, but I have avoided this bit of set-up so far.

Thanks in advance.

Doc Dosco

I prefer yer proper nut files as you can measure the depth of the groove easily and quickly.
Check out the section on 'Nut replacement' I did on this thread....
https://www.jazzguitar.be/forum/guita...weaks-ngd.html

Sorted....

[xuoham]

+1 for the Uo-Chikyu

[Engine Swap]

Tried all the "cheap" methods, and finally got a Stew-mac set. No regrets. You should only need five, since most low E strings can be done with a standard file.

[vejesse]

Watch out for the Stewart Macdonald nut files. In the last several years I've received some that weren't hardened properly and were pretty soft. I think they're having these and some other tools made in China right now and the results are mixed. The Japanese files are much higher quality and the size selection is greater, although their diamond fret rounding files are not as nice as Stew Mac. In my opinion.

[Spook410]

I have the double sided Stew Mac files. They're comfortable in your hand. However, seems I never have the right size and have had to add a couple of individual files.

If you're going to do nuts from scratch, you'll need a few additional things.

Also be aware that you can repair a nut if you go too deep with nut dust (I've read baking soda also works) and very thin super glue to fill the slot. Pack the slot as tight as you can with the dust first, then a drop of thin super glue. Actually works better than it sounds but for me, only if I've done a good job of packing it well.

Good for you for taking this on.

[SamBooka]

Nut files does not sound dirty, but nut sauce does

[docdosco]

Thanks everyone.

I won't be doing any nuts from scratch, (scratch nuts, ha!) just fixing certain ones that are not cut right from the factory. I have a really good set-up guy, but it gets pricey having him do little things I could do.

I like the groove fix idea with nut dust/baking soda and super glue. That is a handy hint.

I also hadn't considered that if not careful, one could cut into the fret board when filing without due diligence. That would be annoying.

Doc Dosco

[spiral]

One great way to get good results is to use a gap / feeler / leaf gauge to measure the distance between the string and 1st fret, while holding down at the 2nd fret. I have a spark plug gap gauge and use the six different thicknesses from: .016" (low E) to .011" (high E). This makes your adjustments measurable and repeatable with a tool that many people already have or can get very cheaply. I find this easier than using a ruler against the string because you can see the gap easier and feel the resistance if you are at the right depth.

You should be cutting the slot at an angle to the headstock so there shouldn't be a risk of gouging the fretboard. If you are doing it right the risk should be marring the headstock which you can avoid by putting down some painters tape. There are lots of good videos on YouTube of different techniques.

[Woody Sound]

I found a set like this on ebay that was pretty cheap. I think my set has 10 sizes, but it could be less, maybe 8. They work great.

[edh]

One tip that I read somewhere, is to use pieces of round wound strings. Use the appropriate string gage for each string.
Then you would only need to buy the B and C files(assuming you have a wound G string).

[mikeSF]

i use the Stewmac set as well and they do a perfect job

[Paully]

I used the tip cleaners to fine tune a pre slotted nut and it worked out well.
I wouldn't try using them on a nut
blank though.