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wondering what glue I should use to fix this bit of loose binding back onto the pickguard
thanks for any help
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09-13-2024 07:00 AM
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Definitely avoid CA or super glue. I would use duco. Before applying the duco, make sure there is not any crusty residue from the previous application, that might restrict surface-to-surface bonding. Use masking tape for clamping pressure. Any excess duco will clean up easily.
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I've used CA many times to glue loose binding, you just have to make sure not to get any squeeze out and be accurate and glue it level w the guard surface, cause once it's glued, it's glued. If you have a little squeeze out a quick wipe w some acetone will clean it but make sure you don't let it contact plastic/lacquer for any length of time, acetone will melt it.
They also sell slow setting CA if you're unsure.
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UV resin will work, and it can be wiped away before the cure starts. Dentists use it for crowns, so it's strong enough. The only downside is that it needs to be held in place until it cures, and clamping might be an issue. Rubber bands should work on a pickguard, but be sure to leave enough open area for the UV light to get to the resin. It doesn't have to be a lot, once the cure starts it will get all of the resin in time. That's probably what I would use, but I have the resin and UV light on hand. If you don't already have that, cyanoacrylate will work. Many luthiers use CA for the entire binding attachment.
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I use water thin CA (StewMac #10 or equivalent) for all my binding work. Tape the binding tightly in place leaving little gaps in the tape, put a small drop on the seam between the tape using a mini pipette. That will tack weld the binding in place. Run a tiny bead of CA right on the seam, it will wick in and be almost invisible. CA works equally well with wood or plastic bindings
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I should have been more clear about my warning about CA glue. Given the question, it sounded like there was a degree of uncertainty or inexperience. There are different varieties of CA glue, to consider. Trial and error might be involved in order to settle on the right formula. Thin CA will flow or wick, sometimes in undesirable ways if you are not practiced. It could be difficult to clean up or undo, for a novice or first timer.
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I use the bind glue I get from some place in Georgia they supply Gibson with the glue for their binding work. Otherwise use the glue from StewMac that is specifically for binding. You have to be careful it will remove finish but on the pickguard you might need to scrap excess and rebuff top of pickguard.
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UV cure epoxy is amazing stuff. We use it to attach hinges to glass doors. That's a lot of torque. I found out it will cure in areas that see no light. Once it gets started in the glue line the curing propagates. Masking tape it in place and put it in the sun.
Note I've never repaired binding. I'm just a fan of UV cure epoxy! CA is very cool as well. I'd bet the glue that's made for the job is probably best.
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so helpful - thanks everyone so much!
enaintram is right that I'm clueless about stuff like this! - so I appreciate your caution on my behalf.
I guess I'll go with the stewmac product - it's tempting just to try to get a wee blob of super glue in there and then hold it in place for a few minutes.....
but I sort of knew that was a bad idea - especially with a swanky guitar.
cheers!
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The StewMac binding glue is an acetone based plastic glue similar to Ducco or Weld On cements. It works fine, is kind of messy and was the glue of choice for a long time. Many builders have moved to cyanoacrylate (CA), either using the water thin stuff that I describe earlier or for a repair like yours, using a drop of medium CA and holding the crack closed (use a piece of UHMW) and hit with a bit of accelerator.
Originally Posted by Groyniad
The nice thing about CA is that it works with what ever kind of binding or purfling that you might have. I switched years ago, using CA for both new bindings and repairs and it would be my choice here
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It's much easier to fix mistakes on a pickguard than on a guitar body. Whatever you use, do the job with the pickguard removed from the guitar.
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I am surprised that nobody has mentioned animal hide glue. Strong, very common among instrument makers. Designed to be removed/undone.
Look for 'Rabbit Skin Glue' on line and utube for details.
Just a thought.
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I've literally used RSG thousands of times but I wouldn't recommend it for this type of repair, for something like this you want a permanent non water soluble repair Originally Posted by SoftwareGuy
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I used traditional hot hide glue for my first couple of wood binding projects. It is tricky to work with, particularly if you are trying to futz around fitting a piece of binding and some purfling in the little channel. I would want to experiment with it on plastic before actually trying it on the real thing. Once I learned the CA method I haven't even considered anything else, it works so well on both plastic and wood, fiber and even MOP or abalone. Originally Posted by SoftwareGuy
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