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When dressing frets with a file which type of file do you use?---a smooth single cut / dead smooth file or other type of file? (I do know when finished filing to use 320 grit to 600 grit sand paper to finish.)
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08-16-2024 11:38 AM
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It depends on the situation and generally I use files and sandpaper. The best is when I use 320 sandpaper and a radius block to match the fretboard. Then I go through and crown the tops with fret crowning file and sometimes fine grit emory cloth. I then go to 600, 1000, 1500 sandpaper and final polish. Each fret job actually is done different because they all have particular circumstances that dictate how you work. I know many go through steps and even to the point of a huge high polish on the fret so they shine like unbelievable. That is nice and cool but actually overkill because once you put about 10 hours of playing on the guitar all that is gone. Major goal is to remove as little of fret material as you can to get them all level and dressed.
Getting the angle and edges of fret to be perfect at each side of the fingerboard can take some time. It is an art and a science. Give someone might also answer this question I have another question for them. Do you generally use glue and if so what glue? CA or titebond, or something else. On a new fingerboard it is generally never need but on refrets and as you go over the neck on an archtop it is tricky.
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You only need a half round file / crowning file, and a quarter round file for the fret ends.
2nd what deacon Mark posted.
It's unnecessary to sand the frets by hand at all, just stick the sandpaper in the crowning file and keep the intonation point in the center.
I can break down the whole process if you want.
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I use a variety of files and other abrasives when I am fretting or refretting. An 18 inch beam with 120 (for the fretboard) and 400 (for the frets), smaller sanding blocks both radiused and flat, a 6 inch mill bastard file, the proper sized recrowing file, and a triangular file made "safe". I use an old draftsman's eraser shield to protect the fretboard and binding.
I think one of the big secrets to perfect frets is a perfect fretboard before they ever go in.
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All of the above is good advice. If I did a lot of fret work I would certainly invest in more stuff. But I only work on my own guitars.
For dressing the frets to improve playability (when not re-fretting) I get by with just a few simple tools:
A 14" hollow beam, ground flat, with self-stick sandpaper. A radius sanding block is not necessary for just leveling the frets.
A notched straightedge to make sure the fretboard is straight.
A fine tooth 3-sided file with the edges ground smooth does the crowning and fret ends. Finish with sandpaper and other polishing tools.
I get very good results. Most important is patience and attention to detail.
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Imo you're better off using tools which are already shaped to the contour that you're going to create. Such as radius block, half round file, quarter round file. Otherwise, you're guessing and it won't be as accurate. Why would you go out of your way to have poor accuracy instead of near perfect accuracy? Doesn't make sense. Yes, notched straight edge is important to make sure the neck is completely straight before you start.
Last edited by Bobby Timmons; 08-19-2024 at 08:58 PM.
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I can get by using simple tools because I am a skilled craftsman with years of metalworking and guitar repair experience. I know how to use a file and I take my time. No guesswork involved.
The OP wanted to know what tools we use and I responded. Not saying it’s best for everybody.
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Anyone used a "fret kisser tool" from stew mac for the one off high fret?
S
More on the tool here :
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Originally Posted by SOLR
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