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Originally Posted by Meggy
For the love of Jeebus, put a proper pickguard on that thing, please….
White, black, parchment, tortoise, doesn't matter...
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07-22-2017 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Meggy
no worries - I love your work and I found your post nothing but interesting and informative!
Thanks and cheers,
Frank
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Frank, Meggy
Many thanks for both your responses - great advice - and the results speak for themselves.
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Newsense -- If you end up going with Tru-oil (worth considering), you can fill the pores by doing an initial flood coat of oil applied with fine sandpaper. Put far more oil on than you need, and work it in with the sandpaper. Give it a good day or two to dry then sand it back, and you're ready for your build coats.
Sorry for the hijack, Frank... she's a beaut!
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Thanks for the tip Jehu!
that is what the good people over at the Warmoth forum told me too. I'll do that next time ... if there is a next time. For the time being, I am just happy with this instrument (and its brothers and sisters :-))
thanks for the nice input everybody!
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Originally Posted by Hammertone
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Originally Posted by FrankLearns
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Originally Posted by Meggy
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Originally Posted by HammertoneOriginally Posted by MeggyOriginally Posted by FrankLearns
De gustubus non disputandum est.
It's all good. Carry on.
Last edited by Hammertone; 07-24-2017 at 09:48 PM.
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Originally Posted by Hammertone
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Hi everyone,
I am new to the forum. I'm currently building a partcaster strat I would like to have the same result that you Frank67 and Meggy. You did a wonderful job. I bought a body in swamp ash few days ago sand to 320. first I sanded it to 400 (dry).
After after i applied a first coat of tru oil with a rag, I let it rest a night. On the next day, I proceed a wetsanding at 600. I would like to keep a light color as your partcaster and I'm a bit afraid because mine look more like honey. Have you also gone through this step a little darker?
Thank you in advance for your help !
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Yes, I remember that it was a bit darker in the beginning. Your Strat looks great!
i still love that guitar I built and I am all around happy with the outcome. I came to the conclusion that one should not mess with the traditional designs too much. They are iconic for a reason.
Good luck with your build!
pS: I received good hints at the Warmoth forum.
Little video on my traditional Tele build
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Originally Posted by Sam.Agst
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Thank a lot ! I am reassured now. I invest a lot of time in this project and I would like to have a good result as your Frank.
I will continue on this way and of course post few pictures !
Thank you for your support !
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Originally Posted by Sam.Agst
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Yes, but mahogany is more dark than swamp ash. That's look nice also ! how did you proceed ?
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Originally Posted by Sam.Agst
Then proceeded with 8 or 9 thin layers of Tru Oil applied with my finger only one side every day letting it dry 24 hours between each layer. Before applying a new layer, I lightly buffed using a 3M 0000 synthetic wool pad following the wood grain.
I waited a full month of final drying before starting to assemble any hardware
Patience and going thin for each layer seems to have paid off, oh and the Tru Oil smell took a good 6 to 8 months to completely vanish!
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Good job ! thank you for your contribution !
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Sam - just to say that my experience is that Tru Oil will give a bit of an amber/honey tint to the wood. It darkens a little over time (i.e. years) also. Sometimes it's hard to show these things with photographs. It does keep a nice natural look to things though. When I received the unfinished swamp ash bodies for my partscasters, I did love the light, milky kind of look the natural wood has, but I think it would be very hard, possibly impossible, to have a finish that keeps this - I have been told as much by professional guitar builders in fact. So that's a shame in a way, and there is always some compromise with these things, but I do still think Tru Oil is a very nice way to finish a guitar for a fairly natural look.
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Hi Meggy. Thanks for all. I let the body rest during all the weekend and now it is much more clear. I'm planing to continue the wetsanding throught 800 and 1200 grain. effectively the swamp ash is so beautiful as natural that I would like to let the body as light as possible. You and Frank made it as weel !
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Originally Posted by Sam.Agst
And also let each coat dry for at least a day, and I smoothed down and de-nibbed the surface between coats, using either 1200 grit wet and dry paper, or very fine 0000 grade Liberon brand wire wool, and then cleaned the surface with naptha (zippo lighter fuel) before applying the next coat. But just how I did mine, and only in case it helps with your own finishing job anyhow.
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Lol - just re-read my original post, and it looks like I'd already said pretty much exactly what I just did above... At least I'm consistent anyhow.
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Thanks a lot for all your advice Meggy ! I just finished the 600 grain wetsanding :
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Originally Posted by Sam.Agst
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Ha ha, I had the same reaction b-u-t-I-m-u-s-t-r-e-s-i-s-t
great Job Sam!
Ibanez archtop with 0.010 Thomastik strings and...
Today, 05:27 AM in The Builder's Bench