The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #76

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    Quote Originally Posted by Meggy
    Arhghhh…my eyes…burning…burning…
    For the love of Jeebus, put a proper pickguard on that thing, please….
    White, black, parchment, tortoise, doesn't matter...

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    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #77
    Quote Originally Posted by Meggy
    Forgive me! - I did impetuously butt in above, and without due consideration for what the OP had done, which looks extremely nice I must say. I just read the last post and wanted to help, so sorry about my insensitivity really. Anyhow, I'd be very interested to know what kind of oil finish that was you used Frank?
    Dear Meggy,

    no worries - I love your work and I found your post nothing but interesting and informative!

    Thanks and cheers,
    Frank

  4. #78

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    Frank, Meggy

    Many thanks for both your responses - great advice - and the results speak for themselves.

  5. #79

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    Newsense -- If you end up going with Tru-oil (worth considering), you can fill the pores by doing an initial flood coat of oil applied with fine sandpaper. Put far more oil on than you need, and work it in with the sandpaper. Give it a good day or two to dry then sand it back, and you're ready for your build coats.

    Sorry for the hijack, Frank... she's a beaut!

  6. #80
    Thanks for the tip Jehu!

    that is what the good people over at the Warmoth forum told me too. I'll do that next time ... if there is a next time. For the time being, I am just happy with this instrument (and its brothers and sisters :-))

    thanks for the nice input everybody!

  7. #81

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammertone
    Arhghhh…my eyes…burning…burning…
    For the love of Jeebus, put a proper pickguard on that thing, please….
    White, black, parchment, tortoise, doesn't matter...
    A little OTT of you surely? Anyhow, I like it, and having had the guitar a fair few years now, it would actually seem very wrong to screw a piece of plastic to the front. It is what it is, and staying that way!

  8. #82

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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankLearns
    Dear Meggy,

    no worries - I love your work and I found your post nothing but interesting and informative!

    Thanks and cheers,
    Frank
    Thanks Frank, very decent of you - I just didn't want to seem like I was trying to hijack the thread to show off my own partscasters. I think the one you've created is at least as nice as either of the ones I posted to be honest!

  9. #83
    Quote Originally Posted by Meggy
    A little OTT of you surely? Anyhow, I like it, and having had the guitar a fair few years now, it would actually seem very wrong to screw a piece of plastic to the front. It is what it is, and staying that way!
    I'd also say that this comment was a bit OT. The way this guitar is constructed it is not meant to have a pickguard and it is much nicer to let the nice wood shine through. I also like it the way it is!

  10. #84

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammertone
    Arhghhh…my eyes…burning…burning…
    For the love of Jeebus, put a proper pickguard on that thing, please….
    White, black, parchment, tortoise, doesn't matter...
    Quote Originally Posted by Meggy
    A little OTT of you surely? Anyhow, I like it, and having had the guitar a fair few years now, it would actually seem very wrong to screw a piece of plastic to the front. It is what it is, and staying that way!
    Quote Originally Posted by FrankLearns
    I'd also say that this comment was a bit OT. The way this guitar is constructed it is not meant to have a pickguard and it is much nicer to let the nice wood shine through. I also like it the way it is!
    No problem, I'll just put on dark sunglasses before looking at the guitar again.
    De gustubus non disputandum est.
    It's all good. Carry on.
    Last edited by Hammertone; 07-24-2017 at 09:48 PM.

  11. #85

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammertone
    No problem, I'll just put on dark sunglasses before looking at the guitar again.
    De gustubus non disputandum est.
    It's all good. Carry on.
    It's true indeed that it is pointless to argue about matters of taste - yours was the most negative reaction I've had to the looks of that guitar since I built it (2011) so I was perhaps taken aback somewhat. But of course your taste in these things is entirely valid, and you have every right to your views. And yes, all good, and carry on we all can and should.

  12. #86

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    Hi everyone,

    I am new to the forum. I'm currently building a partcaster strat I would like to have the same result that you Frank67 and Meggy. You did a wonderful job. I bought a body in swamp ash few days ago sand to 320. first I sanded it to 400 (dry).
    After after i applied a first coat of tru oil with a rag, I let it rest a night. On the next day, I proceed a wetsanding at 600. I would like to keep a light color as your partcaster and I'm a bit afraid because mine look more like honey. Have you also gone through this step a little darker?

    Thank you in advance for your help !
    Attached Images Attached Images Building a Partscaster tele-img_8904-1-jpg Building a Partscaster tele-img_8901-jpg 

  13. #87
    Yes, I remember that it was a bit darker in the beginning. Your Strat looks great!

    i still love that guitar I built and I am all around happy with the outcome. I came to the conclusion that one should not mess with the traditional designs too much. They are iconic for a reason.

    Good luck with your build!

    pS: I received good hints at the Warmoth forum.

    Little video on my traditional Tele build

  14. #88

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam.Agst
    Hi everyone,

    I am new to the forum. I'm currently building a partcaster strat I would like to have the same result that you Frank67 and Meggy. You did a wonderful job. I bought a body in swamp ash few days ago sand to 320. first I sanded it to 400 (dry).
    After after i applied a first coat of tru oil with a rag, I let it rest a night. On the next day, I proceed a wetsanding at 600. I would like to keep a light color as your partcaster and I'm a bit afraid because mine look more like honey. Have you also gone through this step a little darker?

    Thank you in advance for your help !
    Love the wood on that! I chose swamp ash for my warmoth tele and I really like the look. Best of luck with your project!

  15. #89

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    Thank a lot ! I am reassured now. I invest a lot of time in this project and I would like to have a good result as your Frank.

    I will continue on this way and of course post few pictures !

    Thank you for your support !

  16. #90

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam.Agst
    Hi everyone,

    I am new to the forum. I'm currently building a partcaster strat I would like to have the same result that you Frank67 and Meggy. You did a wonderful job. I bought a body in swamp ash few days ago sand to 320. first I sanded it to 400 (dry).
    After after i applied a first coat of tru oil with a rag, I let it rest a night. On the next day, I proceed a wetsanding at 600. I would like to keep a light color as your partcaster and I'm a bit afraid because mine look more like honey. Have you also gone through this step a little darker?

    Thank you in advance for your help !
    Tru Oil gives an amber color after a couple layers, here is my before and after but mine is mahogany so the wood is different yours might not get that dark:
    Building a Partscaster tele-02unfinished-body-front-jpgBuilding a Partscaster tele-17glossytruoil-jpg

  17. #91

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    Yes, but mahogany is more dark than swamp ash. That's look nice also ! how did you proceed ?

  18. #92

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam.Agst
    Yes, but mahogany is more dark than swamp ash. That's look nice also ! how did you proceed ?
    First, I wet sanded with 400 and a small wood block using some Tru Oil then waited a full day for each side.
    Then proceeded with 8 or 9 thin layers of Tru Oil applied with my finger only one side every day letting it dry 24 hours between each layer. Before applying a new layer, I lightly buffed using a 3M 0000 synthetic wool pad following the wood grain.
    I waited a full month of final drying before starting to assemble any hardware
    Patience and going thin for each layer seems to have paid off, oh and the Tru Oil smell took a good 6 to 8 months to completely vanish!

  19. #93

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    Good job ! thank you for your contribution !

  20. #94

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    Sam - just to say that my experience is that Tru Oil will give a bit of an amber/honey tint to the wood. It darkens a little over time (i.e. years) also. Sometimes it's hard to show these things with photographs. It does keep a nice natural look to things though. When I received the unfinished swamp ash bodies for my partscasters, I did love the light, milky kind of look the natural wood has, but I think it would be very hard, possibly impossible, to have a finish that keeps this - I have been told as much by professional guitar builders in fact. So that's a shame in a way, and there is always some compromise with these things, but I do still think Tru Oil is a very nice way to finish a guitar for a fairly natural look.

  21. #95

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    Hi Meggy. Thanks for all. I let the body rest during all the weekend and now it is much more clear. I'm planing to continue the wetsanding throught 800 and 1200 grain. effectively the swamp ash is so beautiful as natural that I would like to let the body as light as possible. You and Frank made it as weel !

  22. #96

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam.Agst
    Hi Meggy. Thanks for all. I let the body rest during all the weekend and now it is much more clear. I'm planing to continue the wetsanding throught 800 and 1200 grain. effectively the swamp ash is so beautiful as natural that I would like to let the body as light as possible. You and Frank made it as weel !
    Looks like you're doing a brilliant job anyhow, and all the best for your build. Not that it really matters, and there are different ways to do things I know, but I did no wet sanding with my builds - I wanted to keep the texture of the grain unfilled, so all I did was to apply an initial fairly generous coat of Tru Oil, and then about 10 or 11 very thin coats after that - and I mean like really really really thin, no more than a smear really!

    And also let each coat dry for at least a day, and I smoothed down and de-nibbed the surface between coats, using either 1200 grit wet and dry paper, or very fine 0000 grade Liberon brand wire wool, and then cleaned the surface with naptha (zippo lighter fuel) before applying the next coat. But just how I did mine, and only in case it helps with your own finishing job anyhow.

  23. #97

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    Lol - just re-read my original post, and it looks like I'd already said pretty much exactly what I just did above... At least I'm consistent anyhow.

  24. #98

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    Thanks a lot for all your advice Meggy ! I just finished the 600 grain wetsanding :
    Attached Images Attached Images Building a Partscaster tele-e096b686-3135-4dd2-b951-b35f5929e70a-jpg 

  25. #99

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam.Agst
    Thanks a lot for all your advice Meggy ! I just finished the 600 grain wetsanding :
    Bravo! I must say, that looks just fantastic, what a lovely job you're doing - makes me want to start another partscaster myself!

  26. #100
    Ha ha, I had the same reaction b-u-t-I-m-u-s-t-r-e-s-i-s-t

    great Job Sam!