Gypsy guitar strings

[eddue]

Originally Posted by frogeye

• Regarding E string rubbing. I assume that the rubbing is at the headstock between nut and tuning peg. This is quite common with slotted headstock Selmer style guitars and no reason for concern. I was able to address it on my guitar as follows: When putting on new strings I have both E strings winding "inbound" from the little hole in the tuning peg towards the center of the headstock while all 4 other strings I have winding outwards towards the edge of the headstock. I don't know how to describe it better but after trying for a little while I now know the amount of windings I have to use for the E strings to have them clearing the headstock.
• Low Bridge Concern: Bridge height is significantly lower than on an archtop and measuring under 2 cm at the D-string is quite common for Selmer style guitars. Please measure and post. I wouldn't be worried about this however.
• Low string angle at bridge. Same as above, the top is made from thinner wood and the bracing is less sturdy so it won't take too much pressure any way. I'll take some photo's from my guitar tomorrow and post so that you can compare.

Great idea about the tuning peg, More winding seems like a simple solution.

I was thinking about raising the bridge, either shims or a taller bridge. I could probably adjuust the truss rod a bit but I prefer a steeper angle for the afterlength. I don't think it will add that much pressure to the top with low tension strings.

[eddue]

Originally Posted by HotClubBrampton

Saw your post on Djangobooks.forum too. The D500 is a fantastic guitar. The price might be a reason to think that something is wrong with it, but usually its not.
I have heard it against luthier guitars and expensive brands, it stands out for its loud, autoritative sound. What I read on your post are not issues, IMHO.
Enjoy your guitar, play with string brands, grab some wegen or jazzIII or bigStubby picks, shim the bridge up to your content, but overall develop the right hand technique for "la pompe". Guaranteed, that will keep u busy a good couple of years
(btw, high action is recommended for louder volume/ my current bridge has 1.5mm of shims under each leg - Django used coins, picks or even a matchbox)
Cheers!

Good info here, thanks a lot!

I have my first batch of strings coming (Pyramid), they are sitting in the local FedEx dispatch and I should have them Monday. I have some sets here I could put on but they are not Gypsy Jazz strings so
I will just wait. Elderly Music has a great price for the GHS version, 5 sets for $20, but there was a problem with my order so I have to re-order them. Also will have to order the Savarez if I can't find them at some of the local music stores.

[monk]

I have a first year Saga D-500 that I bought new. I've had great luck with John Pearse and Dell Arte' 11s. No breakage problems. Reasonable life and consistency.

Regards,
monk

[frogeye]

Originally Posted by eddue

I was thinking about raising the bridge, either shims or a taller bridge. I could probably adjuust the truss rod a bit but I prefer a steeper angle for the afterlength. I don't think it will add that much pressure to the top with low tension strings.

Agree, I wasn't concerned about pressure either and merely describing the difference between archtop and selmer guitar bridge height. Also as it can never be mentioned too often, be very careful with tightening the truss rod. If it brakes you will look at a complete write off for the guitar, 1/16th to max 1/8th of a turn at a time is what I remember.

In respect to raising the bridge I recommend that you work with shims first until you get to a height that you are comfortable with before spending money on a new bridge. Due to it's construction this guitar type is very receptive to the seasonal change in temperature and humidity and as a result the string height typically varies between late summer and late winter. Unless that you want swapping bridges between seasons you may want to get used to the idea of shimming. I use some very old oak veneer (not self-adhesive!!) that I cut into small strips and that works really well for shims. I leave in the Northeast US and with the hot, humid summer (wood will expand so bridge will raise) and the bone dry cold winter (wood shrinks and bridge lowers) I have had to add two shims (they are very thin...) by the time I get to late February.

My guitar is a Favino style guitar hat has a slightly larger body so this may be a bigger problem for my guitar than for the D-500. But still, keep this in mind as it may save you money. When I had originally bought my guitar the action was considerably high and the guitar was hardly playable for me. I had the bridge lowered to an acceptable height a few weeks after. Well that was in late August and by early January the strings were laying on the frets and I needed to shim the bridge back up again. . Next time around I will have the guitar settle in my home and geographic location for a few months before I make alterations to the bridge. I will use shims at least during the first year of ownership or so before considering new bridges.

Good Luck with the guitar. I'm sure that you will like it. They require some "getting used to" in respect to playing but once you do you'll love the response and the sound.

[eddue]

I have a lot of experience fitting upright bass bridges, different but same techniques apply. It's always better to have a bridge too high than raise one cut too low. Shims are good for a temporary fix or to find the right height but I prefer having a bridge fitted to the correct height.

A lot of double bassists have 2 or more bridges cut for their instrument. A winter and a summer bridge, or if they travel a lot different bridges to counter effects of different climates and humidity changes. Also, different bridges for different types/styles of playing, jazz or orchestra playing for instance. That might be the answer for Gypsy guitarist with similar problems, different bridges to adjust for climates changes or type of playing (high for more volume and low for faster picking).

[Michiv]

Just because I found this post: I actually prefer the Pyramid Gypsy strings over the D'Addario

[tejastani]

I tried a set of John Pearse gypsy strings that I liked better than the argies.
Never got around to trying some TI Plectrums. The guitar was a loan from a friend and I gave it back because tHe long scale was making my tendinitis flare up.

[AlohaJoe]

Savarez Argentines now and forever (for me), but highly respected Canadian Luthier Shelley Park ships her new guitars with GHS Custom Shop Gypsy Loop End strings, and I know other folks in the GJ community that like them too.

If someone really prefers the sound of Phosphor Bronze on a Gypsy Jazz instrument, IMHO they bought the wrong guitar. Unfortunately there's no law against it, but in France if you put Flats on a GJ guitar you will go to prison.

From Shelley's site:

You will not hurt the guitar by using suitable guages (.10, .11) of bronze wound strings. However, the classic sound of these guitars is obtained with silver plated copper or steel strings. Part of this is historical: silver plated copper or steel was the current string technology in the earlier years of Jazz guitar, and it is integral to Django’s sound.

Tradition aside, most players using Maccaferri style guitars prefer the sound and response of silver plated copper or steel.

Bronze, Brass or other bell-related metals can produce some tonal depth and sustain not offered by silver plated copper strings. However, these qualities do not necessarily play to the strengths of a Maccaferri style guitar.

Based on experience and anecdotal evidence, Bronze wound and Silver plated Copper wound strings also seem to have different attack/decay envelopes. Silver plated Copper seems to have a slighter quicker response, which is ideal for these guitars and also the approach to playing in Gypsy Jazz.

Bronze strings are ideal for Martin style guitars, for example, which are constructed to optimize the qualities of that string material, which include booming bass and sustain. The sweeter tone and quick attack desired in a Maccaferri style guitar is not as achievable with bronze wound strings. Silver plated copper sacrifices some sustain, but offers the response and attack normally desired in a Maccaferri style guitar.

One should never discount the potential versatility of the Maccaferri design. They have more ‘sweet spots’ than they are given credit for. For example, they make excellent finger style instruments. But in any case, their tonal identity and responsiveness is generally considered to be best realized with lighter silver plated copper strings.

[jazzbow]

Originally Posted by AlohaJoe

Savarez Argentines now and forever (for me), but highly respected Canadian Luthier Shelley Park ships her new guitars with GHS Custom Shop Gypsy Loop End strings, and I know other folks in the GJ community that like them too.

Since this thread was up again I've discovered another brand not previously mentioned before. It's made here in the UK by a company called Picato. I haven't seen them to buy and try but was wondering whether anyone in the european mainland tried them yet?