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  1. #1

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    Hello all. I have a Tradition Les Paul copy that needs a new nut. The edge of the nut at the low E string is broken off. The slots all seem too low as the strings are all below the top. I've seen the trick of using super glue and baking soda to fill in the slots and then re-cutting. I don't think I will be able the use that method to fix the low E string issue.

    I found the Tusq brand pre-slotted nuts on the net. It looks like the Epiphone nut will fit my guitar according to the measurements (width, length, and string spacing match exactly). The guitar was made in Korea and my guess is it was made by a company who supplies Epiphone.

    I was wondering what your thoughts are about pre-slotted nuts. I am on a tight budget as my income is sporadic at the moment. I know that some minor adjustments will have to be made in order to fit the nut.

    I am handy but I just don't think I am ready to build a nut from scratch.

    Thank you for any thoughts and info.

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  3. #2

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    if the width and string spacing seem to match..you are off to good start..but height is also important factor...there are many workarounds..sanding or shimming...probably going to require tweaking but give it a go..just choose the replacement nut carefully to start, and you'll have an easier time fine tuning

    cheers

  4. #3

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    The preslotted nuts are fine, as a starting point, as long as the string spacing is close enough. The depth of the slots will almost certainly need to be adjusted, though. You can do that with the appropriately sized files, or you can lower the slots by sanding off the bottom of the nut. Both methods have advantages and drawbacks. I usually prefer to file the slots individually, but I'm not everyone. It's not rocket science, and it's not really difficult if you have patience and some experience. If you choose to sand the bottom of the nut, make sure you keep everything square, or you could end up with a tilted nut, or one that doesn't make consistent contact across the fretboard.

  5. #4

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    Good advice sgosnell and neatomic, I might just add that in going the filing individual slot route, angle the file towards the headstock and be careful. Make sure the highest point of the string is towards the bridge end of things, else you won't get a clean break on the string edge and it can cause all kinds of funky unwanted sounds. Be really patient and clear the slot and try the string at full tension as you go along. If you go too far, you'll have to do all sorts of self loathing and repairs and it's not worth it.
    Good luck
    David

  6. #5

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    Making a nut from scratch can be a low cost way to go if you have a vice a small saw and a few files. If you have a little spare time try it. I buy large bleached bones for dogs from the pet store and cut those to size.
    Last edited by Matt Cushman; 07-21-2017 at 08:26 AM.

  7. #6

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    Bleached bones for dogs... Never thought of that!

    Well, that would be too much work for me, but I'm lazy. I always get one precut as close as I can to the orig. Height, width and even length are easy enough to modify, even for a poser like me.

    The problem for me, and for most jazz guys, I think, is the string slots are not wide enough for heavier strings that I use, like 13s or 14s.

    I do not have those files. I've always wanted to get some, but the are expensive.

    I try to use old strings and press them into the nut as I lead them through the slot with the tunner under tension and proper string angle. If it's not working, I sometimes use one string bigger than the string that resides there, i.e. i'll thread a D string through the G slot. This sometimes works fabulously! And sometimes less so. The good thing is there's not much that can go wrong. The worst thing that can happen is you have to throw away a $10 nut (but that's never happened yet!)

    It's not the professional approach, I know, but it gets the job done.

    Usually, I get it as close as I can and I'll live with it as long as the intonation is OK. Then next time it needs fret work, I just make sure my guy will also check the nut. I've never gotten a comment like, "Holly $H#$#, that nut was a disaster," so this encourages me.

    BTW, if this is the original nut, and no doubt it is, take a razor blade and go across the edge where the nut meets the neck before you pop it out. Sometimes the finish gets onto the nut and if you just pop it out, it can take some finish with it!

  8. #7

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    Thank you all for the information.

    I just need to verify the height. For the measurements I used a combination of dividers and a machinists rule.

    To sand down the bottom I was thinking of using spray adhesive to hold various grades of sandpaper to a piece of glass to keep things straight. To touch up the nut slots I was thinking of using a combination of torch tip cleaners and making files from feeler gauges. At this time I cannot afford a set of proper nut files.

    Right now the guitar doesn't sound too bad other than the low E buzzing on 1 thru 4 frets. The G string has what sounds like common complaints.

    One thing I was wondering about is what glue to use once I am ready to set the nut. Some say a little Super Glue. Some say little Elmer's wood glue. One guy on Youtube recommended using a little Testers model glue. I think I would use Elmer's.

    Thanks again .

  9. #8

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    I have been cutting my own for years. I agree, it isn't worth the trouble for you to cut one nut as it is so easy to find a pre cut nut that will work fine. I only made my suggestion to point out that all you need is a bit of bone to do the job. A good nut can be made of any hard material including hardwoods like ebony for a vegan guitar. I remember the first nut that I made. I used a file and an Exacto saw to shape a small piece of bison bone that a friend wanted me to use in his guitar. For gluing keep in mind all you need to do is hold the nut in place. A small dab of white glue on the front face of the nut should hold it and still make removal easy when a replacement is needed.

  10. #9

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    I normally use bone but I have so many small pieces of ebony I use them if customer is good with it. I charge less for them and can make one pretty fast. I am lucky I have a huge number of files of all types.

  11. #10

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    I don't own actual nut files, because they're too expensive for the small amount of work I do for myself. If I did work for others, I'd buy a set, but I only work on my own instruments. I use a jeweler's saw that I bought for other uses, and small files from the harware store. It requires patient and careful work, but it can be done. As TruthHertz said, the slots need to be slanted downward toward the headstock, and highest where the string leaves the nut, without any high spots behind that place. I have some of the cleaning tips sold for nut slotting, and they're only useful for polishing the slot after it has been cut to depth and width. They're not files, and it would take weeks to cut a slot with those.

    I tend to use cyanoacrylate for holding the nut, mostly because it's usually handy and convenient and dries quickly. I've also used carpenter's glue (Titebond, Elmer's, et al) and it works fine. Pretty much any glue will work, IMO, because it doesn't need to be, and shouldn't be, a strong joint. You just don't want the nut to move or fall out. The stronger the glue joint, the harder it will be to replace the nut, and the higher the likelihood of damage to the fretboard or headstock when you try. I use the smallest drop of cyanoacrylate I can get there. Cyanoacrylate (superglue, KrazyGlue, et al) has rather low shear strength, so it's not too hard to tap the nut and loosen it, as long as you didn't use too much in the first place. But Elmer's or almost anything else will do the job. Just don't get carried away with the amount you use. A drop or two is enough for any glue.

    If the strings buzz only at the lower frets, I would first adjust the truss rod, loosening it just a little at a time. You probably need a little more relief in the neck. Adjusting the truss rod is much quicker and easier than installing a new nut.

  12. #11

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    Unfortunately the nut is missing the top "hump" at the edge next to the low E string. If I raise the action a little it is o.k. I also made a slight adjustment of the truss rod. I thought about perhaps trying the super glue/baking soda trick but I think it is best to go with a new nut. I plan on going from 10 round wounds to 11 flats. The other strings seem to be too low in their slots although for now the guitar plays o.k. as I am not an accomplished guitarist.

  13. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by midnattssolen
    One thing I was wondering about is what glue to use once I am ready to set the nut. Some say a little Super Glue. Some say little Elmer's wood glue. One guy on Youtube recommended using a little Testers model glue. I think I would use Elmer's.

    Thanks again .
    A couple of small spots of CA glue, easily reversible if your placement is off or need a new nut in the future.

  14. #13

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    I forgot you said the nut was broken. Some baking soda and CA could work, but I would probably put a new nut on my own guitar. What you do is your choice, of course. If you do ruin the new nut, it's not the end of the world, and you can always get another and start over.

  15. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by midnattssolen
    Unfortunately the nut is missing the top "hump" at the edge next to the low E string. If I raise the action a little it is o.k. I also made a slight adjustment of the truss rod. I thought about perhaps trying the super glue/baking soda trick but I think it is best to go with a new nut. I plan on going from 10 round wounds to 11 flats. The other strings seem to be too low in their slots although for now the guitar plays o.k. as I am not an accomplished guitarist.
    If you can remove the nut that is in there without any damage, you could simply add a bit of material to lift the base of the nut . A thin shim of some sort or a bit of super glue and baking soda can be used if you are careful. With the original nut lifted you can then reshape the bottoms of the slots to fit your preferred string set. This only works if the slot for the low E can be made deep enough to hold the string. The nut slots depth for the wound strings should only be deep enough to accommodate two thirds of the strings diameter. The depth for the plain strings should be as deep as the full diameter of the string. Nut slots that are cut too deep are trouble makers! After the desired string action is attained by cutting and shaping the bottom of the slots only then should you file off the top of the nut to achieve the proper slot depth. Or you could install a new pre-slotted nut and tweak it as close as possible to the above parameters.
    Last edited by Matt Cushman; 07-22-2017 at 09:08 AM.

  16. #15

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    Matt

    Thanks for the information. I think my best option is to go with the pre-cut nut. It will save me some work.

    Visited your website. Nice guitars! Wish I could afford one in amber colored finish.

  17. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by midnattssolen
    Matt

    Thanks for the information. I think my best option is to go with the pre-cut nut. It will save me some work.

    Visited your website. Nice guitars! Wish I could afford one in amber colored finish.
    Thanks midnattssolen! Don't forget forum members get a 10% discount. I would enjoy building a guitar for you.